In Nepal and Tibet, around Mount Everest, are the Khenbalung, Khumbu, Rolwaling, Rongshar, Kyirong and Nubri sacred valleys. One of the most legendary beyul is Pemako (“the Secret Land Shaped Like a Lotus”), in southeastern Tibet, east of a dramatic Tsangpo River gorge known as the Great Bend, where the river curves sharply into the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh. The Tsangpo Gorge is three times deeper than the Grand Canyon, with enormous waterfalls in which the river drops more than 8,000 feet in a 150-mile stretch. These waterfalls, where several explorers have lost their lives, are said to be a gateway to a secret inner part of Beyul Pemako. The Tsangpo River connects Pemako to one of Tibet’s most sacred mountains, Mount Kailash, and the landscape of the Tsangpo-Pemako area is said to represent the body of the goddess Dorje Pagmo, with the river her spine and the surrounding peaks her breasts.
The Pemako is consecrated to the female divinity of Dorje Phagmo and its sacred geography is mapped to the body of this sleeping Goddess. Her head is the Kangri Kangpo, her two breasts is Namche Barwa and Gyala Peri respectively. The lower part of her body lies in Yangsang or the innermost pemako which is the upper Siang region of Arunachal Pradesh. In the confluence of Siang (Tsangpo) and Yangsang is the sacred triangle Kila Yangzom the vulva of Goddess Dorje Phagmo. This the supreme of sacred lands is now open to the world to discover and marvel.
Every year pilgrims traverse the area on Kora (circumbulation). Covering the sacred Devakota, the gathering place of Dakinis, The holy Titapori mountain, Pemashree and Riu Tala (Eko Dumbing for Adis).
After an arduous trekking of 4 days one reaches the sacred Titapori Mountain at 14,000 ft. The landscape here forms a fully opened lotus. In the lake of Danakosha there is the Citta Island, ‘the heart of the world’. According to ancient pemako guide book; upon merely seeing this place ones obscurations of knowledge will be cleared and negative Karma accumulated over a thousand eons will be purified.
From here one have breathtaking view of the majestic Himalaya range with Namche Barwa peak and Kondu Dosem Potrang the mythical palace of Dorje Sempa in the north, the Pemashree and the Eko Dumbing or Riu Tala of the Abroka range towards west and south respectively.
It is a treasure trove of flora and fauna with all kinds of medicinal and aromatic plants and rare flowers. It is also a Rhododendron fairyland. 44 new species was discovered here in 2005. Wildlife: Goral, Takin, Musk deer, Snow leopard, Tiger.
HIGH PEMAKO TREK
Day 1 - Arrive at Guahati /Dibrugarh airport
Day 2 - Drive to Pasighat. 7 hrs
Day 3 - Drive to Jengging (2690 ft) 7 hrs
Day 4 - Drive to Tuting (1493) 9 hrs.
Day 5 - Trek to Kuging village (2786 ft) 5 hrs
Day 6 - Trek to camp Mabi (7205 ft) 6 hrs
Day 7 - Trek to camp Yungchak (7925 ft) 3 hrs
Day 8 - Trek to camp Kanebenga (10795 ft) 5 hrs
Day 9 - Trek to camp Pao Lipik (11959 ft) 6 hrs. On a clear day you can see the Namche Barwa mountain with its whole range.
Day 10 - Danakosha (13123 ft). The sacred lake with the Tseta(heart) Island.
Day 11 - Kora (circumbulation) of the 5 sacred lakes, each of which as believed, will give you Tantrik powers. On a good weather we can see the Kududusempedrong-the abode of Vajrasattava,Rinchinpong and the Beyul range etc.
Day 12 - Trek to camp Wangchen Phukpa (13225 ft) 7 hrs.
Day 13 - Trek to camp Dungchen Droma (12500 ft) 3 hrs.
Day 14 - Trek to camp Tashi Droma (4663 ft) 8 hrs.
Day 15 - Trek to Tashigang village (4961 ft) 4 hrs.
Day 16 - Trek to the holy Dewa Kota circled by Yang sang river. After Kora and prayers trek to Mankota(3771 ft) 5 hrs.
Day 17 - Trek to Nyukong (Adi village) 4109 ft. 4 hrs.
Day 18 - Trek to Tuting. 5 hrs.
Day 19 - Drive to Jengging.
Day 20 - Drive to Pasighat.
Day 21 - Ferry down to Dibrugarh on river Brahmaputra. Stay at colonial tea garden bunglow.
Day 22 - Fly out to Delhi/kolkotta
'In the future, as the complex necessities and riches of the world increase, there will remain two great Neychen into which the foreign invaders will fail to reach. These are the Beyul Dremo Jong (Sikkim) and the Beyul Pemako. Contained herein is a concise guide for finding their door and entering their valleys here in the Land of Snows.
Walking for 22 kilometers until we arrived at Pema Dzongchen. There, in the upper part of the valley, the mountains were dusted with snowfall and their bases were pregnant with lush green forests. Its center contained a white boulder the shape of a king sitting on a throne and the surrounding smaller mountains were shaped like savage carnivorous animals. Nestled in the upper and lower parts of the valley were the Guru's caves of rumination, within which lay the impression of his feet in solid rock and mantric seed syllables growing from the walls themselves. As we remained there for some time, we beheld innumerable por!tentous omens and auspicious signs.
Next to the Guru's cave was another cavern with naturally formed pillars. Crawling inside we found a spontaneously formed Dakini temple with balls of tsampa on a Ganachakra feast plate surrounded by myriad amazing self arisen images growing out of the cavern walls. Additionally, concealed within the stone walls of the cave were the keys to the hidden land, namely, a pilgrimage guide, a handbook of the Beyul's essential qualities as well as an inventory and map of the neighboring Terma displaying their locations.
Adjacent to this cave was a canyon called Sherkar Lung, which was shaped like the dancing Dakini, Lhasai Karmo. The upper part of the valley was filled with snow and its base was filled with thick green forests. In the center of the valley was a mountain of boulders shaped like a nomad's tent and nestled into its edges were the numerous meditation caves of the Guru's twenty-five disciples.
From Sherkar Lung gazing to the distant horizon, I beheld a floating goddess amidst the vast expanse of sky surrounded by an abundant land of glorious rainbow castles. To the east sat a crystal Chorten that grew from the rocks themselves and further off in the distance I beheld a land abundant with grass, water, amrita, and sublime Buddha's who were teaching and subduing the nagas, demons and beings of the six realms with their Vajra. Furthermore, this land was blessed with an abundance of barley, corn, wheat, milk, grains, spices, fruits and bamboo. This was the wondrous throat of Dorje Pagmo.
To our left was the valley of Sherkar and to our right was an unfamiliar mountain, near which was a bounty of precious jewels. Here in this land, the thunder itself seemed to endlessly float in the air and later on, as we continued our journey, the melting mountain snows dripped slowly on either side of us as myriad animals scurried and galloped through the secret trails before us. As we continued on, we eventually arrived at a crag of boulders resting on the summit of a mountain pass. Adjacent to these boulders were two small lakes, one of medicine and one of blood where we made offerings of Serkim and Sang while hoisting a prayer flag for the gods.
To the southeast was a land called "Glorious Lord Buddha" which contained a permafrost snow mountain the shape of a standing lion and another mountain made from a mixture of snow and mud shaped like the letter AH leaning upwards. On its summit was a sacred lake which contained the life force of a demon, tsen and naga that lived within a castle beneath its waters. As we arrived, we made petitions and offerings to the protectors and hoisted a victory flag of red silk. Here, the upper part of the valley faced east, its bottom faced west and was shaped like a prideful black snake sloping downwards. There was also a large crystal rock like a large nomad tent with each of its walls spreading to a distance of twenty-five phodam. It was shaped like an erect five pointed Vajra standing upwards and contained the heart of Dorje Pagmo's treasures as "Ludul-ma" - subduer of nagas.
Furthermore, spread amongst the eight cardinal directions were the eight great lands as well as the four major and four minor continents. These were accompanied by the five great oceans of white, gold, red, green and lapis lazuli while being surrounded by hundreds of smaller lakes of similar colors. All of these were comparable to the seven dancing oceans, the great salty sea and the seven golden mountains of Mount Meru.
Surrounding their circumference were snow mountains, clay mountains, forested mountains, slate mountains, mountains covered with green meadows, little mountains and large mountains. Its center was swollen with four corners and four sides and falling on its left and right were artesian springs and meadows arrayed like a mandala.
Likewise, if one wishes to travel south to the hidden land of Pema-ko, one must continue for nine nights through the land of Badong in India. On route, we found the tributaries of the upper Tsangpo River flowing downstream and beheld a large boulder known as "honey rock". It was from
It is here where the five types of supreme magical herbs grow. The magical herb that increases happiness is white in color and tinged with red. Its flowering bud is five in number and smells akin to medicinal elephant bile. Its petals are small and shaped like a curled small infant baby.
The magical herb which fills one with immortality is a red lotus flower tinged with black. Smelling it, releases the scent of camphor, which is carried by the wind. It has eight leaves and is shaped like a crimson toad.
The magical herb which grants all supreme and mundane siddhis, is a golden flower tinged with red. Smelling it reveals an odor of nutmeg and the tips of its six petals are slightly curled. It has blue leaves and hangs upside down like a cuckoo.
The magical herb which empowers one to fly in the sky like the Dakini, Vajra Varahi is a blossoming red flower like red coral that has been shined with oil. Smelling it reveals the aroma of aloe wood and the pungent taste of cumin. It has three petals and is shaped like a Garuda soaring in the heavens as its leaves are formed like a peacock with breasts of lapis lazuli.
The magical herb which is the summation of all intrinsic realization is a blue flower shaped like a bell. A single whiff will intoxicate the mind with its scent of white sandalwood, its petals are contoured like a bulbous and shiny seed the shape of a Vajra and its leaves resemble that of a small light green rooster.
This is a description of the five types of supreme magical herbs as found in the Beyul Pema-ko. During they day they display a shower of rainbow light and at night, they burn like fire and jiggle and wiggle with dancing light. These herbs contain magical power, are sacred to this holy land and are extremely difficult to find.
On the auspicious sacramental occasions of the 10th and 25th days of the lunar month. Pray one pointedly to the master Padmasambhava to fulfill ones mantric recitation on the stages of approach and accomplishment of ones Yidam and deities. Then, as one prepares the magical and tantric implements for the appeasement of the hosts of assembled Dakinis - subdue through oath and instruction the dharma protectors and eight classes of gods and demons. Furthermore, throughout all times, encourage them to persevere in their entrusted deeds and thereafter, through the reception of blessings, one will come to behold these five types of supreme medicinal herbs.
Like a mouse, which creeps privily to steal, the rays of rainbow light expands, slowly covering the land. Likewise, in whichever direction the wind blows, these magical herbs like sharp swords sway and bend with the wind. As they move, the dew drops which cover them are flung and gradually the amritas of medicine, milk and their inner essences can be collected like drops of precious jewels in an oblong spoon. As one ingests and quaffs their inner essence, their innate blessing power is actualized, the experience of bliss and emptiness is generated and ones form is transformed into the pubescent body of a Deva attaining immortal life. Furthermore, all the sublime Siddhis, both supreme and mundane, like the sky delighting fairies who circle the world will be instantly attained.'